Environment

Before you bring your fish home, it’s best to set up their aquarium at least 24hrs beforehand so that you have time to make sure that everything is working properly and that the water quality is good.

When it comes to choosing the best aquarium for your fish – the bigger the better! When fish have lots of space, they are less likely to become stressed and aggressive. Remember that starter aquariums and round glass bowls are not suitable environments for fish because they do not allow for growth or enough oxygen. A common myth about fish is that they will only grow to the size of their environment - this is simply not true. Fish will continue to grow, and a small environment is likely to cause many health issues. More space can help your fish be happier and healthier!

The size of your aquarium will depend on your species of fish and how many fish you would like to have. For example, an aquarium about 60 x 30 x 30cm will take about 10 small fish (and two water snails!) However, a good reminder of minimum size is to allow at least 30sq.cm of surface area to every 2cm of fish, including the tail. An average fish will need at least 5 litres of water for each cm of their body length. When filling the aquarium, be sure to leave an air gap for your fish at the top.

A cover for your aquarium is vital as a lot of fish are keen jumpers. Covers also prevent objects from falling in the aquarium.

Good water quality is essential for the health and survival of your fish. When testing for the quality of water in an aquarium, the focus is normally on the ammonia, nitrite and pH levels. These are all chemicals that should be kept at specific levels to prevent serious problems for your fish.

There are many testing kits available to use – always talk to a fish specialist to see which will work best for your fish and follow the instructions. Ask an adult for help when testing the water.

Temperature is vital for water quality as well. Read on to learn more.

Lighting:

A well set-up and maintained water filter is extremely important for any aquarium. Fish need a filter because they eat a lot and produce a lot of waste. A filter basically cleans the water of debris, removes the toxic buildup of ammonia and nitrates, and aerates the water so your fish can breathe.

There are lots of different filters available. From external to internal filters, there are chemical, mechanical, and even biological ones (where you grow cool colonies of good bacteria that help clean the water). The one you choose should ultimately be based on the needs of your fish and your personal preference. Talk to your vet or fish care specialist to find out what type of filter is best for your fishes’ aquarium.

However, it’s important to realise that installing any old filter is not enough to ensure clean water. You need to get a filter that turns over around 10x the volume of your aquarium per hour, make sure that you have a big enough aquarium, and always remove any excess food after feeding your goldfish. Even with a filter, your water can quickly become toxic to your fish if your filter is too weak, your aquarium is too small, you leave food in the aquarium to rot or you don’t do enough water changes.

An air pump can be added to assist water aeration, these are attached to an air stone to create surface agitation and create a bubble effect. Aeration allows oxygen to be circulated in aquariums. Since aquariums have a smaller surface area than natural bodies of water, they do not get as much oxygen. Fish need oxygen to breathe, just like all animals.

Placement of your fishes’ aquarium is also important. Aquariums can be quite heavy so ensure it’s placed where the weight can be supported and that the aquarium is not located in direct sunlight, near cold drafts, and that there’s low light and minimal noise. This will help keep your fish comfortable.

Substrate is the material used to layer the bottom of your fishes’ aquarium. Substrate is important because it mimics your fishes’ natural environment and it helps filter the water. There are many kinds of substrate, but a common choice is smooth, fish friendly gravel. A gradient/slope should be created with the substrate, as this is more interesting, complex, and natural than a flat bottom environment. You should ensure there’s at least 2 inches of substrate at the lower parts, or a bit more if needed to cover plant roots.

In nature, fish have lots of plants, rocks, coral, driftwood, etc. for resting, hiding, and exploring – fish enthusiasts like to call this aquarium “furniture.” This “furniture” is an important part of creating a fish’s environment so that they can feel at home. Not only do these things make your fish more comfortable, but they make them feel safe as well. Having tall plants (real and/or fake) with leaves close to the surface of the aquarium is beneficial for the fish. This way they can kick up their fins and take a rest while getting plenty of oxygen.

Just like your own home, your fish's home also needs regular cleaning. Keeping your fishes’ water at the proper temperature and their aquarium properly cleaned is important for healthy, happy fish. There are plenty of differences in saltwater and freshwater fish, but in terms of cleaning their home, there are a few basics you’ll need to do, no matter what kind of fish aquarium you have.

It is usually enough to change some of your goldfish’s aquarium water once per week. We say “usually”, because you will need to do more regular water changes in some situations. You should regularly use a test kit to keep an eye on your aquarium’s ammonia or nitrite levels, you’ll need to change the water more often if you see spikes in these.

If you’re wondering how to actually go about changing your goldfish’s aquarium water, then with the help of an adult, follow these 10 easy steps:

1. Buy an aquarium vacuum (also known as a siphon or hose).
2. Get a bucket.
3. Turn off any equipment, such as your filter or air pump.
4. Being extremely careful to avoid your fish, stick one end of the vacuum into the bucket and the other into the gravel at the bottom of your aquarium. Switch on the vacuum (or manually pump if necessary) to remove the water from the aquarium and transfer it to the bucket. This removes both water and waste from your aquarium at the same time.
5. Keep vacuuming/pumping, while moving the hose around your aquarium to different areas of gravel, until around a third of your aquarium water has been removed (you may have to empty the bucket once or twice). Always stay well away from your fish when completing this step.
6. Remove your filter and place it into the bucket of aquarium water – note: aquarium water, NOT tap water – gently squeeze out your filter sponges to remove any gunk that may be blocking your filter. Never wash it under the tap as you will kill the good, beneficial bacteria that is important for your aquarium and fishes’ health.
7. Put your filter sponges back into your filter and re-install the filter in the aquarium.
8. Wash any other equipment or decorations in the same way – in aquarium water, NOT tap water.
9. Fill your bucket with tap water before adding it to your aquarium – chlorine present in tap water is dangerous to both fish and bacteria. As such, it is vital to add a dechlorinating product to the new water or leave it standing for 24 hours for the chlorine to leave the water. Tip: filling a bucket 24 hours ahead of time and letting the water sit can allow it to be put in the tank sooner.
10. Leave the bucket to sit for a while, until it is a similar temperature to the water already in the aquarium, then gently and slowly pour the treated tap water into your aquarium. You should do this half a bucket at a time and very slowly. Otherwise, the change in water condition and temperature may shock your fish.